00:46 Board the train, which is loaded by the railroad employee using a forearm push to the back of a yelping man old man until all of us cram onto the car. Not being 100% specific if we were assigned to a specific car, David and I were some of the last to board (we weren't, for the record). This indecision would define the next five hours of our lives.
~04:00 Now completely aware of the scent, size, favorite body positions, confined area sleeping abilities, dental hygiene practices, elbow shape and pointedness, and anything else ascertained non-verbally of about 20 complete strangers. I was told the ticket was standing room only, but even that may be a misnomer; as I see standing as the ability to support oneself. This is more of a mutual lean. We are still at the edge of the car, an area maybe 3.5 feet by 12 feet. There are probably 20-22 of us in the area. Each time the door has to be opened, a few shrieks, screams, and I assume cuss words, enter the air as the squeeze gets tighter. Remember, we are not in the main area of the car, but the area at the end where the doors and the control closets are located.
05:45 Mass exodus provides me with great hope (we still have 4-5 hours to go). I work my way into the car and secure an open seat. I am pretty excited about my upward shift in Chinese train society.
05:48 One of the new passengers has the ticket for "my" seat and the one next to me. I get up and head back to the end of the car. David took the advice of one of our close companions and didn't try to get a seat. Either way, it's like The Hamptons in our car now, only me, David, an a friendly young couple who we've been next to all ride. Now I can sit, stretch, and live the high life. My new mobility allows me to get out my pen and paper to record the journey.
10:49 At the second to last stop, seats are finally ours.
11:02 We arrive in Huang Shan Shi, we accompany the nice young couple from the car to the taxi, as they are also headed to the bus station.
After managing our way to Tangkou, (the city at the base of Mt. Huang Shan, in the Anhui province) a women hollered at us "have a eat." So we did. Filled up on fried rice, bought some sausage, crackers, and water from the shop next door and headed up the mountain. As time was an issue (we wanted to get to the summit before sunset) we decided to take the bus to the main starting place. Although a trail does exist, most people (or at least the tourists) take a bus up to this spot. My good old ISIC (international student id. card) saved me 50% on the hefty 200Y entry fee. We started up the stairs. And more stairs. And more. We made it to the summit in just under two hours; beating the Lonely Planet guidebook estimate of 2.5 hours! One of the best parts was the p
orters. Carrying all sorts of materials, using what is essentially a bamboo scale with goods on each side. This 'scale' rests across the back of the neck and one shoulder. We did our best to say "ni hao" (hello) to each one of them and generally received a response and a hearty smile. At the top we were greeted by plenty of cool winds and mist. We tried to find a place to pitch our tent, the girls at the snack shop were quite helpful, but apparently when they asked their boss, he sent us to another area. Well, when we arrived, we saw a large tent city spread across the basketball court below the hotel, with a few shops nearby. So we set up, got some noodles and hit they hay: looking to make up for some of the lost sleep on the train.
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